Style Report Spring/Summer 2017
The world is feeling a multi-local vibe, as culture becomes stronger than country. Despite tensions erupting between nations, on a community level an open-sourced, youth-driven spirit emerges. The concept of “allclusive” embraces a mixture of places, experiences and cultures. The global village starts locally, then grows exponentially; designs emerging in the spirit of “for all, and by all.” The disability market will benefit most with its 1.3 billion people affected globally. Designs such as garments that zip open to accommodate the wheelchair-bound, are multi-functional and stylish.
Street culture is a catalyst for world influences. A unifying force shapes eclectic identities on each respective home turf, in emerging nations, and all corners of the globe. “Newstalgia” is a new nostalgia that merges history and culture, and leans toward a new sustainability, where the past is reused. For younger generations who have grown up in a time of limited resources, reaching back to the past makes sense.
Cities are becoming less affordable for the middle class, therefore “urban burbs” are attracting Millennials. The move away from the cities and into the suburbs allows for open communities, green spaces, multicultural neighborhoods, and a comfortable environment. In the near future, driverless shuttles will offer these urban commuters access to in-vehicle fitness centers and mobile retail spaces. In addition, flexible home designs cater to Millennials, where “income suites,” offer options for rental rooms, or extra space for family members.
The apparel and textile industries are developing new ways of using discarded fruit and vegetables from the food industry. There is increasing awareness of the waste involved in food production (of all fruit produced for consumption, 45 % is discarded), and this waste can become raw material for fashion, footwear, and accessories.
Dramatic looks for evening or holiday have a party feel, as dresses, tops, trousers and light jackets take on sparkle and shine. A contemporary spin on disco from the seventies and eighties inspires embellished surfaces, and conjures retro charm. Satins and velvets, lamé and metallic plissé dominate this look, which supports dramatic shoulders and skin-revealing, sophisticated designs.
A romantic, fairytale mood informs daywear, inspired by historical undergarments, with a nod to sensual lingerie. An exaggeration of the ethereal, fabrics have sheer qualities, such as chiffon, tulle, and organza. Understated needlework detail is found on cotton, linen, and silk. Faded prints on floor-length silhouettes further enhance the underwear aesthetic. Details such as micro pleating, frills, and textured lace add dimension and texture.
Adding to the romantic mood, knits have a feminine touch, featuring pointelle detail, floral intarsia, and silhouettes that are fitted and gathered. Another approach to knits; oversized and layered, cozy and luxurious separates updated in Fair Isle patterns. Loungewear-inspired ease dominates this look, including cardigans, and wide-cropped trousers worn with a bell-sleeve crew. Lingerie styling appears again in long-line leather corset tops; the nipped waist and plunge front working well over shirting and jeans. Lace-up bra tops have corset details, styled in black or ivory lace with ruffled edges, and paired with skirts.
Sporty styling is still strong, with offerings such as nylon anoraks with patched details, hideaway hoods, zippers and toggles. Classic workwear defines casual in boxy denim or cotton twill jackets with concealed zip openings. The double-breasted Crombie coat has retro styling reminiscent of 1960s men’s tailoring in wool checks with horn buttons. Exaggerated full sleeves are a key detail in woven tops, shirt dresses, and coats. Slim trousers in classic tailoring fabrics get an update with cuffed hemlines. Another key item is the flare pant, adding a retro kick in an open-side silhouette. Jumbo corduroy oxford bags have a carrot-leg shape, large pleats and long side pockets.
Grunge meets femininity with a psychedelic edge; influenced by 1990s grunge music and Nirvana’s Kurt Cobain. Shirts tied around the waist, oversized knitwear, and distressed denim are grunge staples. However, the new version is modernized with bold color and a washed bright palette. Looks include voluminous trousers, slouchy outerwear, and leather motorcycle jackets. A youthful color scheme keeps it modern, in bold reds and oranges, balanced with pastels and jewel tones. Pink is prevalent, and accessories such as bandanas, bold graphics, and animal prints tap the 90s skater scene.
The genderless aesthetic renders details such as see-through lace and mesh shirts, and feminine- edge outerwear. Embellished surfaces in pattern and texture, and sophisticated color can be formal or casual in application. Machine embroidery works all-over florals into suiting checks for an understated, yet androgynous look.
In knits, the ribbed Henley is an essential staple, cable-stitched in fine-gauge merino wool, and great for layering. The throw-on poncho compliments this layered aesthetic, for a casual, Navajo-inspired year-round look. Plush textures in raglan sleeve and roll-neck sweaters as well as V-necks are updates on classic styling. The look is smart and relaxed, fully-fashioned in stretch wool blends with a modern feel.
The tailored trouser has a formal edge, with contemporary styling—tapered leg, ankle-skimming—in stretch wool blends for comfort. Minimalist styling informs flat-front pants, in plaids and retro checks, with cropped lengths and soft hopsack textures. The newest silhouette—high waist wide-leg pants—is worn with smaller tops, in tweed, patterned wools, and plain crepes. The all-over floral print shirt can be sporty or semi-formal, and either way makes a statement in versatile cotton lawn. The classic great coat makes a comeback, sporting reinforcing panels and harness rings, with heavy foot-stitched detail. Western looks go luxe, in unusual fabrics, such as velvet, moleskin, corduroy, and coated cottons.
Slow-living is a new state of mind in a gentleman’s den; the antidote to the typical “man’s cave.” Colors are darker, more sophisticated, as the relaxation-inspired room offers downtime for the discerning man. A retro design influence reflects in materials such as teak, walnut, and stone. Copper and brass are important accents, and color choices include dark mustard, emerald, and teal. This specific-use room carves out a masculine nook to read, listen to music, or decompress.
Interiors take inspiration from the active market, in sports-inspired fabrics. A punch of color—neon yellow, for example—energizes upholstery and carpet. Office spaces benefit from sheer mesh for seat covers, and bright flooring designs. The hospitality and residential environments share similarities, such as vibrant solid colors and texture. Knit, quilting, and velvet juxtapose matte, rubbery materials.
In color, Pantone’s Greenery, and deeper shades of jungle green, lend a moody, calm presence to contract and residential spaces. Applied to curved designs, and accented with plush upholstery, the mood is restful and soothing. Deep reds are an elegant way to spice up the palette, a sexier extension of orange hues. Additional colors are midnight, mustard, sienna, and honey.
Designers are celebrating wood in all its warmth and character. Sculptural forms appear almost fluid; stains and dyes emphasize grain. Combined with glass, aluminum, and industrial foam, unusual designs are possible. Eye-catching techniques include: carved and tooled, ribbed ridges, and stained color. On a larger scale, wood offers discrete ways of soundproofing in the interior or architectural environment.